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Getting around in Cambodia

Getting around Cambodia is all part of the adventure. Massive improvements to the national highway network in the past few years have made getting around the country much easier than it once was, with many formerly dirt roads now surfaced and new highways built. Even so, getting from A to B remains time-consuming: roads are still narrow and bumpy, while regular wet-season inundations play havoc with transport (and often wash away large sections of tarmac in their wake).

Getting around Cambodia

The two best ways for getting from one place to the other in Cambodia are by air and private car. Flying between cities is an inexpensive and popular option among visitors, while private cars provide the most comfortable and convenient mode of transportation.

Other travel options, such as boats and ferries, buses, taxis, or bicycles do exist, but they're usually time-consuming and inconvenient. 

By Flight

Airlines in Cambodia

Domestic flights offer a quick way to travel around the country. The problem is that the airlines themselves seem to come and go pretty quickly as well. There are currently five domestic airlines in Cambodia, operating flights between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and Siem Reap and Sihanoukville. There are up to 10 flights a day between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and it is usually possible to get on a flight at short notice. Book ahead in peak season. There are currently about five flights per day between Siem Reap and Sihanoukville in peak season.

Cambodia Angkor Air: Offers several flights a day between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and up to two flights a day between Siem Reap and Sihanoukville. Prices are generally higher than the competition.

Bassaka Air: Offers at least one flight daily between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and Siem Reap and Sihanoukville.

Cambodia Bayon Airlines: Has at least one flight daily between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and one or two daily flights between Siem Reap and Sihanoukville.

JC International Airlines: New airline with daily discounted flights between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

Sky Angkor Airlines: Has several weekly flights between Siem Reap and Sihanoukville.

Helicopter

There are two private helicopter companies offering scenic flights over the temples of Angkor and charter flights for high-flyers.

Helicopters Cambodia: Has offices in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and is affiliated with Helicopters New Zealand.

Helistar: A reliable helicopter company with offices in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.

By Bicycle

Having a scenic coastline, Cambodia can be a great destination for cycling enthusiasts. Bicycles are easy to find (you can hire them in towns or even ask your hotel to arrange one for you) in most major tourist destinations.

It's a uniquely Cambodian experience to cycle in the jungle of Siem Reap and explore nearby temples. Cycling tours can be arranged for guests that are interested. Tours include cycling in the jungle of the Angkor area for about 2-3 hours. If you like exploring and adventures, this is a must-do!

That said, we don't recommend cycling for more than 3 hours at a time or trying to make it to every temple in the area by bike, because of the scorching heat.

By Boat & Ferries

With the improvement in roads, river travel is diminishing in importance. While Cambodia's rivers do indeed offer the chance to travel from one place to another while observing the local culture and natural scenery, the journey is simply too tiring for most visitors. 

The boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap leaves the pier on Sisowath Quay (Neat st. 104, opposite the River View Guest House) at 7 in the morning. It costs US$35 and takes about 5 hours to complete.

Many companies provide entertainment on board for guests, but many don’t. For boats that don’t, some stretches of the trip can be a little boring, for example on the middle of a lake with no scenery.

The boat from Siem Reap to Battambang leaves Siem Reap at 7:30 in the morning, costs US$16, and takes anywhere between 5 and 8 hours. This is much slower a journey to complete and often requires guests to transfer onto smaller vessels in the middle of the journey.

The Siem Reap to Battambang trip is much more of a gamble — the quality of boats varies from day to day. The Battambang portion of the trip is very beautiful, but visitors should know that the best time for this journey is during the rainy season when water levels are high. A shallow lake makes for a very uncomfortable journey. 

As we mentioned before, we don't really recommend traveling by boat to our guests. If you’re really into cruising, though, it might be worth the adventure, but for most guests it takes up too much time and is very tiring.

If you really want to get close to the locals and see the scenery, there are better options such as the boat trip to Kompong Phluk floating village via the wetlands of Tonle Sap Lake.

If you're keen on traveling by boat, we recommend using Angkor Express for your travels. They're reliable and have built up a fantastic reputation for their services. 

By inter-city Bus

The range of road transport is extensive. On sealed roads, the large air-conditioned buses and speedy express minivans are the most popular choices. Elsewhere in the country, a shared taxi or local minibus is the way to go.

All major cities are now well-linked by bus to Phnom Penh along sealed roads, but if you're travelling from one end of the country to the other you may have to change buses in Phnom Penh or another hub.

While it doesn't cover all bus companies, bookmebus (www.bookmebus.com) is a reliable bus-ticket booking site, including for more obscure routes (Ban Lung to Siem Reap, anyone?) and cross-border trips.

Buses are reasonably safe, but accidents can happen on Cambodia's dicey roads, and there have been several big accidents involving buses or express minivans where tourists were killed.

Express minivans, which usually take the form of modern Ford Transits or Toyota Hiaces, operate a one seat/one passenger policy and are reasonably comfortable, but they are sometimes driven by maniacs, so check the reviews.

Older local minibuses serve most provincial routes but are not widely used by Western visitors. They are very cheap but painfully slow and often uncomfortably overcrowded, with people spilling out the back and kids vomiting everywhere; only really consider them if there is no alternative.

Hiring a vehicle

Car and motorcycle rental are comparatively cheap in Cambodia and many visitors rent a car or bike for greater flexibility to visit out-of-the-way places and to stop when they choose. Almost all car rental in Cambodia includes a driver, although self-drive rentals are also available in Phnom Penh.

Car

It’s virtually impossible to rent a self-drive car in Cambodia, and even if you do, driving yourself entails numerous headaches. Problems include finding appropriate documentation (your driving licence from home may or may not be considered sufficient – some companies will ask for a Cambodian driving licence, for which you’ll need to take a driving test) haphazard driving by other road users; and insufficient insurance – any loss or damage to the vehicle is your responsibility.

The lack of designated car parks is another real problem. Whenever you park you should get someone to look after the vehicle; in town you’ll usually find a parking attendant near markets and restaurants who will keep an eye on the vehicle for 1000 riel. It’s normal to park as directed and leave the handbrake disengaged so that the car can be pushed out of the way to let other cars in or out. To prevent theft and damage when leaving the vehicle overnight, you’ll need to look for a hotel with parking or find a local with off-road space where they’ll let you park for a few dollars. Given all this, it’s far less hassle, and probably cheaper, to hire a car and driver (see City taxis).

Motorcycle

You can rent an off-road 250cc bike from a number of companies, particularly in Phnom Penh, although you’ll have to leave your passport as security. Check the condition of the bike before heading off on a long trip – if it breaks down, it’s your responsibility to get it repaired or returned to the owner. Away from the main highways take advice on local road conditions, as often even relatively short distances can take a long time. Motorcycle helmets are compulsory (for the driver only) and you risk being stopped by the police and issued with a spot fine ($5) if you’re not wearing one. Note that road checks are particularly prevalent just before holidays and the weekend.

Motorbike theft, in Sihanoukville and the south in particular, is a real issue. The bike’s security is your responsibility, so look to rent from a company that provides installed wheel locks and always make sure you leave it somewhere secure when you stop – at night guesthouses will often bring it inside for you.

Foreigners cannot rent motorbikes in Siem Reap. Originally safety was given as the reason for the ban, but it’s more likely to be a protectionist move to keep the moto “mafias” in business. In other towns it’s easiest to use the 110cc run-arounds available for rent from guesthouses and hire shops; rates are around $5–8 per day.

Things to notice

Road Safety

Many more people are now killed and injured each month in traffic accidents than by landmines. While this is partly down to landmine awareness efforts and ongoing clearance programs, it is also due to a huge increase in the number of vehicles on the roads and drivers travelling at dangerous speeds. Be extremely vigilant when travelling under your own steam and take care crossing the roads on the high-speed national highways. It's best not to travel on the roads at night due to a higher prevalence of accidents at this time. This especially applies to bikers, as several foreigners are killed each year in motorbike accidents.

Cambodia has some of the best roads (read worst roads) in the world for dirt biking, particularly in the provinces of Preah Vihear, Mondulkiri, Ratanakiri and the Cardamom Mountains. Only experienced off-road bikers should take to these roads with a dirt bike. There are several specialized dirt-bike touring companies in Cambodia.

Novice riders should stick to riding smaller semi-automatic mopeds. Drive with due care and attention, as medical facilities and ambulances are less than adequate beyond Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Battambang. If you have never ridden a motorcycle before, Cambodia is not the ideal place to start, but once out of the city it does get easier. If you’re jumping in at the deep end, make sure you are under the supervision of someone who knows how to ride.

Driving Licenses

According to official rules, to drive a car you need a Cambodian license, but the law is seldom applied. Local travel agents and some motorbike renters can arrange a Cambodian license in less than a week for around US$35.

When it comes to renting motorcycles, it’s a case of no license required. If you can drive the bike out of the shop, you can drive it anywhere, or so the logic goes.

Insurance

If you are travelling in a tourist vehicle with a driver, then the car is usually insured. When it comes to motorcycles, many rental bikes are not insured, and you will have to sign a contract agreeing to a valuation for the bike if it is stolen. Make sure you have a strong lock and always leave the bike in guarded parking where available.

Do not even consider hiring a motorcycle if you are daft enough to be travelling in Cambodia without medical insurance. The cost of treating serious injuries, especially if you require an evacuation, is bankrupting for budget travelers.

Road Conditions & Hazards

Whether travelling or living in Cambodia, it is easy to lull yourself into a false sense of security and assume that down every rural road is yet another friendly village. However, even with the demise of the Khmer Rouge, odd incidents of banditry and robbery do occur in rural areas. There have also been some nasty bike-jackings in Sihanoukville. When travelling in your own vehicle, and particularly by motorcycle in rural areas, make certain you check the latest security information in communities along the way.

Be particularly careful about children on the road, as you’ll sometimes find kids hanging out in the middle of a major highway. Livestock on the road is also a menace; hit a cow and you’ll both be pizza.

Other general security suggestions for those travelling by motorcycle:

  • Try to get hold of a good-quality helmet for long journeys or high-speed riding.
  • Carry a basic repair kit, including some tyre levers, a puncture-repair kit and a pump.
  • Always carry a rope for towing on longer journeys in case you break down.
  • In remote areas always carry several litres of water, as you never know when you will run out.
  • Travel in small groups, not alone, and stay close together.
  • Don’t be cheap with the petrol, as running out of fuel in a rural area could jeopardise your health, especially if water runs out too.
  • Do not smoke marijuana or drink alcohol and drive.
  • Keep your eyes firmly fixed on the road; Cambodian potholes eat people for fun.

Road Rules

If there are road rules in Cambodia it is doubtful that anyone is following them. Size matters and the biggest vehicle wins by default. The best advice if you drive a car or ride a motorcycle in Cambodia is to take nothing for granted.

In Cambodia traffic drives on the right. There are some traffic lights at junctions in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville, but where there are no lights, most traffic turns left into the oncoming traffic, edging along the wrong side of the road until a gap becomes apparent. For the uninitiated it looks like a disaster waiting to happen, but Cambodians are quite used to the system. Foreigners should stop at crossings and develop a habit of constant vigilance. Never assume that other drivers will stop at red lights; these are considered optional by most Cambodians, especially at night.

Phnom Penh is the one place where, amid all the chaos, traffic police take issue with Westerners breaking even the most trivial road rules. Make sure you don’t turn left at a ‘no left turn’ sign or travel with your headlights on during the day (although, strangely, it doesn’t seem to be illegal for Cambodians to travel without headlights at night). Laws requiring that bikes have mirrors and that drivers (not passengers, even children) wear helmets, are being enforced around the country by traffic police eager to levy fines. Foreigners are popular targets.

Fuel & Spare Parts

Fuel is relatively expensive in Cambodia compared with its neighbor countries such as Thailand or Vietnam. Fuel prices are generally much higher in central Phnom Penh and Siem Reap (4000r to 5000r, or US$1 to US$1.25, per litre) than elsewhere because of high rents. Highway petrol stations in the provinces are a good bet for cheap fuel (as low as 3000r per litre for gasoline, or 2200r per litre for diesel).

Fuel is readily available throughout the country. Even the most isolated communities usually have someone selling petrol out of Fanta or Johnnie Walker bottles. Some sellers mix this fuel with kerosene to make a quick profit, so use it sparingly, in emergencies only.

When it comes to spare parts, Cambodia is flooded with Chinese, Japanese and Korean motorcycles, so it's easy to get parts for Honda, Yamaha or Suzuki, but finding a part for a specialist make is another matter. The same goes for cars. Spares for Japanese cars are easy to come by, but if you are driving something obscure, bring substantial spares.

By Local Transport

City Bus

Phnom Penh has several public city bus routes that are proving popular with local students but are not yet widely used by visitors. Elsewhere there are no public bus networks.

Cyclo

As in Vietnam and Laos, the cyclo (bicycle rickshaw or pedicab) is a cheap way to get around urban areas. In Phnom Penh cyclo drivers can either be flagged down on main roads or found waiting around markets and major hotels. It is necessary to bargain the fare if taking a cyclo from outside an expensive hotel or popular restaurant or bar. Fares range from US$1 to US$3. There are few cyclos in the provinces, and in Phnom Penh the cyclo has almost been driven to extinction by the moto (motorcycle taxi).

Motorbike Taxi

Motorbike taxis, or motos, are the staple means of travelling short (and sometimes long) distances in Cambodia, although riding on the back of a moto in the middle of anarchic traffic isn’t everybody’s idea of fun – and bag-snatchings do occur (see Crime) – so you may feel safer taking a tuk-tuk or taxi. Moto drivers tend to congregate around transport stops, major local landmarks and road junctions within towns, and they may well offer their services as you walk down the street.

If you have bags, the driver will squeeze them into the space between his knees and the handlebars – moto drivers are adept at balancing baggage, from rice sacks to backpacks, between their legs while negotiating chaotic traffic. Passengers ride pillion behind the driver – Cambodians typically squeeze on as many passengers as possible (three is common), although it’s best not to follow their example and to stick to just one passenger per bike (in Siem Reap, motos are forbidden from taking more than one foreigner at a time). Although you’ll see Cambodian women sitting side-saddle, it’s safer if you sit astride and, if necessary, hang onto the driver.

Motos can be taken on quite long trips out of town – indeed it’s the only way to get to some places, although it’s not particularly comfortable. You’ll probably have to pay for fuel in addition to the day hire. In the provinces, drivers are sometimes irrationally fearful of bandits and can be reluctant to travel in remote areas late in the day, so bear their concerns in mind when planning your excursions.

Remork-moto (or Tuk Tuk) and Auto-Rickshaws

The remork-moto (tuk tuk) is a large trailer hitched to a motorcycle and pretty much operates as a low-tech local bus with oh-so-natural air-conditioning. They are used throughout rural Cambodia to transport people and goods and are often seen on the edge of towns ready to ferry farmers back to the countryside.

Most popular tourist destinations, including Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and the South Coast, have their very own tourist versions of the remork, with a canopied trailer hitched to the back of the motorbike for two people in comfort or as many as you can pile on at night. Often referred to as tuk tuks by foreigners travelling in Cambodia, they’re a great way to explore temples, as you get the breeze of the bike but some protection from the elements.

Remork Vs Tuk-Tuk

So just what are those motorbikes with the cute little carriages pulled behind? Remork-motos? Remorks? Tuk tuks? The debate rumbles on. Officially, Cambodians call them remork-motos, which is often shortened to remork. In Thailand, the high-octane three-wheeled taxis in Bangkok are known as tuk tuks, and this moniker has hopped across the border into common usage in Cambodia. However, some Cambodians take offence at the use of the name tuk tuk, so for the time being we are opting for remork. Remorkable.

Rotei Ses – Animal Cart

Rotei means ‘cart’ or ‘carriage’ and ses is ‘horse’, but the term is used for any cart pulled by an animal. Cambodia’s original 4WD, ox carts, usually pulled by water buffalo or cows, are a common form of transport in remote parts of the country, as only they can get through thick mud in the height of the wet season. Some local community-tourism initiatives now include cart rides.

Shared Taxi & pick-up

In these days of improving roads, shared taxis are losing ground to express minivans. When using shared taxis, it is an advantage to travel in numbers, as you can buy spare seats to make the journey more comfortable. Double the price for the front seat and quadruple it for the entire back row. It is important to remember that there aren’t necessarily fixed prices on every route, so you have to negotiate. For major destinations they can be hired individually, or you can pay for a seat and wait for other passengers to turn up. Guesthouses are also very helpful when it comes to arranging share taxis, albeit at a price.

City Taxi

Both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap have city taxis (as opposed to shared taxis). These don’t tout for fares on the streets but instead congregate outside major hotels or, in the capital, on the riverfront. In Phnom Penh you can order one by phone; fares are around $4–8 per journey.

In other towns you’ll need to find a car and driver. These can be hired for both short hops around town and long journeys (expect to pay around $40 per day for running around town, or $40–80 for an out-of-town trip, depending on how far you plan to travel).

By Train

Cambodia’s colonial-era railway network formerly consisted of two lines, one connecting Phnom Penh with Battambang and Poipet, and the other linking the capital with Kampot and Sihanoukville. The tracks were largely destroyed during the Khmer Rouge period, however, and there have been no passenger services since 2009.

In the same year, a major railway renovation programme was launched with Australian assistance. The line south to Sihanoukville was reopened to freight services in 2012, although the project subsequently hit major (possibly terminal) delays, and it seems unlikely that any passenger services will be launched for the next two or three years – possibly a lot longer.

In the meantime the only way of getting on the rails is to take a ride on Battambang’s quirky “bamboo railway”.

Hitching in Cambodia

Public transport being so inexpensive, you should only have to resort to hitching in the most remote areas, in which case you’ll probably get a lift to the nearest bus or songthaew stop quite quickly. On routes served by buses and trains, hitching is not standard practice, but in other places locals do rely on regular passers-by (such as national park officials), and you can make use of this “service” too.

As with hitching anywhere in the world, think twice about hitching solo or at night, especially if you’re female. Like bus drivers, truck drivers are notorious users of amphetamines, so you may want to wait for a safer offer.

Online Planning

The website www.12go.asia and www.rome2rio.com have a very useful, and generally accurate, Plan Your Trip function that allows you to compare train, plane and bus travel (including costs and schedules) between cities in Cambodia.

Frequently asked questions

Q. Is Cambodia safe for tourist?

Generally, the kingdom of Cambodia is safe to visit and travel around. The only exception to this rule is remote areas at night. Violent crime in the country is rare. Petty crimes like a bag, purse snatching, pick pocketing and other types of petty crimes prevail. In order to make your trip safe, please follow our safety guide for Cambodia

Check out the safety and precaution for Cambodia

Q. When is the cheapest time to fly to Cambodia?

Logically, the cheapest time to fly to Cambodia is during the off-season from June until September. As there are not many tourists visiting the country, the airlines and hotels seem to offer promotion to attract more tourist and try to fill-up the plane. If you are ok with the heat and some sudden rain, this is the time for you.

According to cheapflights.com.au, the cheapest flights to Cambodia are usually found when departing on a Monday. The departure day with the highest cost is usually on a Friday.

Moreover, Cambodia flights can be made cheaper if you choose a flight at noon. Booking a flight in the morning will likely mean higher prices.

Simply follow this, sometimes you can have the promotion of 40-50% discount.

Q. Is there UBER in Cambodia?

Uber in Cambodia has shut down its app services since April 8, 2018. On March 26, 2018, Uber noted that it would be transitioning its services and combine its operations with ridesharing service Grab. So, this means that there is no more Uber in Cambodia since 2018.

At the moment, the best alternative to Uber in Cambodia was Grab. Now when Uber is gone the most convenient way to book a taxi or a private driver in Cambodia is by using the Grab mobile app.

Q. Is it easy to drive in Cambodia?

Driving in Cambodia is an adventure, and it's important to conduct yourself with the utmost care when on the roads, as they can be quite hazardous for pedestrians and drivers alike. 

You cannot be too careful when taking to the road in Cambodia, even when you're not behind the wheel. Between the reckless drivers, the potholed lanes and the corrupt police officers, who seem to be waiting for any opportunity to fine foreigners or accept a bribe, driving in Cambodia can feel like running a gauntlet. However, driving your own car is also a convenient way of getting around (particularly if you plan to travel long distances), and it can be safer than taking a tuk-tuk or a moto-dop, where you can be exposed to bag or phone snatching.

Alternatively, if you'd like to have the freedom of owning your own a car but don't want to drive yourself, you can also opt to hire a driver. Road rules and traffic regulations are often ignored in Cambodia, and many people may be driving without a valid licence, so you may feel more comfortable with this set-up.

You can check a list of things to notice as above in the section of Hiring a vehicle if you plan to drive in Cambodia 

NOT READY YET?

We believe you have the right to arm yourselves with as much information as possible before making any decision.

Check below our detailed tips & guide for every places to visit in Cambodia, recommendation regarding the inclusion in each theme you prefer, and what you can do based on the time frame you have.

PLACES TO VISIT IN Cambodia
Siem Reap
bee-white Siem Reap

Tonle Sap Lake
bee-white Tonle Sap Lake

One of the most fish abundant lakes in the world and supports 360 floating villages and thousands of waterbirds.

Phnom Penh
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Battambang
bee-white Battambang

Sihanoukville
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Koh Rong Island
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Cambodia PLANS BY TRAVEL THEME
Must-see
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Check out all the must-see places and things to do & see

Luxury Holiday
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Unique experience combined with top-notch services

Wellness & Leisure
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Easy excursion combined with week-long beach break

Cruise
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The combination of some must-see experience and the cruise tour along the mighty rivers

Cycling & Biking
bee-white Cycling & Biking

Explore every corners of the destination on two wheels

Honeymoon Vacation
bee-white Honeymoon Vacation

Easy excursions combined with unique experience making the long-lasting romantic memories

Unseen
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Reveal off-the-beatentrack routes, least explored destinations, and unknown tribe groups

Trek & Hike
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Explore the least visited destinations and unknown experience on foot

Family Vacation
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The combination of fun and educational activities

Cambodia PLANS BY TIME FRAME
white-icon About 1 week
yellow-icon About 1 week
white-icon About 2 weeks
yellow-icon About 2 weeks
white-icon About 3 weeks
yellow-icon About 3 weeks
white-icon About 4 weeks
yellow-icon About 4 weeks
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