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When you mention Laos, it seems everyone who’s spent some time there will quickly mention Muang Ngoi as a place to get off the tourist trail and experience life in rural Laos. If you actually go, you will find one guesthouse after another and more backpackers than locals. You will also find a quiet little village with no road access and no permanent electricity, set next to the Nam Ou River among some spectacular karst scenery.

Best time to visit

People all want to enjoy their vacation on sunny days, due to this reason, the best time to visit Muang Ngoi is during the dry season from November to May.

In particular, from November to March is winter, the weather turns really cool and temperature in daylight is about 15°C. 

The wet season runs from May to October, which time you shouldn’t choose. During the rainy season the Nam Ou River becomes much more powerful, and it is much more difficult to visit the village.

Check the below table for the general idea of Muang Ngoi weather throughout the year.

Month Avg. High (°C) Avg. Mean (°C) Avg. Low (°C)
Jan 25.6 18.6 11.2
Feb 28.9 21.2 11.8
Mar 30.7 23.6 14.6
Apr 31.9 26.2 18.7
May 31.8 27.1 20.8
Jun 30.4 26.8 22.4
Jul 29.3 26.1 22.3
Aug 29.8 26 21.9
Sep 30 25.9 21.3
Oct 29.1 24.4 18.8
Nov 27 21.4 15.4
Dec 25.1 19.1 12.7

Muang Ngoi's current weather and 7-day forecast


Muang Ngoi Neua is one of the less well known tourist locations in Laos but it has experienced something of a small boom in recent years. 

One of the big draws of this part of Laos is that Muang Ngaoi Neua is located on the Nam Ou River and also has the Nam Ou ‘Beach’ which is a riverside beach where you can spend time taking in the relaxing scenery.

There is not a huge amount to do in the town itself, but this is all part of the laid back experience, and you can go trekking in the rural areas that border Muang Ngoi Neua.

Here are the best things to do in Muang Ngoi Neua:

Enjoy Nature Wonders

Muang Ngoi owns numerous splendid natural views that impress you from the very first look.

Nam Ou “Beach”

It is strange to have to beach in the middle of a high mountainous region. Off course they have the reliable reason to call it this way. The river bank provides a sandy area, which is big enough to believe it is the sea coast, water is clear, air is relaxing and fresh. Besides, you can dive down and see creatures down there. In some aspects, it provides a really special feeling that incomparable to the real beach.

Tham Kang and Tham Pha Kaew caves

They lie not really far from the river bank, you can trek 15 minutes to there, then perhaps, you should sightseeing the town. The caves are used for bomb shelters during Vietnam war. Though human had some impact on them, they still conserve the natural beauty. Ticket entering is about 1 dollar. In addition, along the way, there are many small caves, each of them provides nice chances for astounding pictures.

Tak Mork stream

The stream is 2 kms far from the Muang Ngoi town. It takes an hour walking on foot to reach to this cool stream. When you reach the spot, your energy will surely be fulfilled again by clear air and peaceful site

Trekking to the Local Villages

Muang Ngoi is home for tens of local villages. You can catch the mages of antique stilt leave houses and hundred meters of paddle fields. Right in those villages, they cross the river, channel by trunks, teak wood bridge. All natural features and plain human buildings combined had made up a dreamy rustic view. Villages you could visit is Ban Na village, Huay Sen, Huay Bo or villages along your trekking paths.

Try the Traditional Herbal Sauna

Want to have healthy relaxation, you have to try the traditional herbal sauna of Laos. It’s a steam room with many guests inside, the steam water in add in some medicinal herbs that have beneficial effect on your body. Furthermore, at some places, they also serve herb tea, hot tub, and free massage. Service provides at the beginning of try season and costs about 2 dollars.

Drink and Dine at the Garden Bar

There are many bars build right on the river bank. At any time you want, you can spend money on food, drinks and relax when contemplating the river sight. What can be more interesting than enjoying dishes among splendid natural scenes? Recommended spots are Gecko Bar, Bee Tree, Nicka’s Place, Riverside Bar, and Restaurant.

Boat Sightseeing in the River

Nam Ou river flows through many villages and picturesque sites, it is a shame if you don’t take a boat riding. Along the riverside, it brings you many opportunities to observe local catching fish, collecting agricultural goods, ethnic minority daily routines. If you want to sunbathe and swim in the sea, stop at any spot you like for the best entitlement.

Muang Ngoi has a lot of guesthouses for its size. There were not any ultra-luxury accommodations in Muang Ngoi. However, there were many options for budget travelers. You will have no problems finding a room here and could pay as low as 20,000 Kip for a double. Don’t bother going with the touts on the dock; just walk around a bit and find a place you like on your own.

Here are some accommodation options in Muang Ngoi:

Ning Ning Guesthouse

Ning Ning Guesthouse is Muang Ngoi’s most upscale option and before it was built, the lack of modern guesthouses would prevent some travellers from staying overnight, instead opting to visit on a daytrip from Nong Kiaow.

Ning Ning Guesthouse would also win the town’s award for best view—it is terrific and obviously so, since anyone who arrives to Muang Ngoi by boat will see the rooms just to the left of the landing, perched high on concrete stilts along the river’s edge. The row of seven rooms have sliding glass doors and a balcony that faces the water and mountains, the view with zero obstruction.

Address: Immediately on the left after walking up from the boat landing
Room rates: US$20 to 50

Lattanavongsa Guesthouse

This is also a good choice in Muang Ngoi.

Lattanavongsa has two plots, a single building with four rooms at the top of the boat landing stairs (immediately on the lefthand side) and another behind it on the main street, a spacious property replete with 12 semi-detached bungalows, a courtyard, neatly manicured garden and picnic tables. 

The fan-cooled bungalows are clean, have solid wood floors, reasonably soft beds topped with white cotton linens including a duvet cover, as well as window screens to keep out mosquitoes and other creepy-crawlies. Each bungalow has its own bathroom with Western toilet and hot showers.

There are no river views here, but porches with chairs and the green space provide plenty of room to find privacy or congregate. 

Address: On the left after walking up from the boat landing
Room rates: Under US$10

Lerdkeo Guesthouse

Lerdkeo Guesthouse (also spelled Lertkeo) was the most surprising find in Muang Ngoi. The property doesn’t look attractive as you approach from the back, but the row of bungalows facing the river are all of a modern construction and finer than your average place.

There’s wooden floors and elegant wood furniture. Concrete walls have been softened with crisp white paint, white cotton linens, an extra blanket in the cold season and wooden wainscoting. Bungalows have fan, windows with curtains, mosquito net and a spacious bathroom befitting of a bricks and mortar guesthouse rather than a bungalow, equipped with a Western toilet and hot shower. Each room has its own balcony and a view over the verdant riverbanks to the water and mountains, with a chair and table to park yourself in and enjoy it all. This solid accommodation with a view does come at a price.

Address: From top of boat landing stairs, turn right
Room rates: Under US$10

Nicksa’s Place

Nicksa’s Place is a standout from all the other bungalows along the river’s edge in Muang Ngoi.

By the village standards, the property has a generously sized piece of riverfront and that means the bungalows boast a wide open, unobstructed panoramic view of the Nam Ou and the peaceful mountains. In fact, when compared to other accommodation, it offers one of the best views, second only to pricey Ning Ning Guesthouse.

The cheapest are basic and weathered buildings, more like a shack with bamboo thatch walls, metal roof and attached concrete bathroom block equipped with an electric heated shower and bucket flush toilets. 

For a few more dollars, the newer wooden bungalows are of a sturdier construction, more spacious and slightly brighter in feel. The concrete and tile bathroom is also bigger—no showering over the toilet—and it has a regular flush toilet, a hot shower and cold bucket shower. 

Address: Head right on the main street after walking up from the boat landing
Room rates: Under US$10

Rainbow Guesthouse

Rainbow Guesthouse is one of the more popular places to stay in Muang Ngoi.

The guesthouse is conveniently close to the boat landing—just right of the stairs after Saylom Guesthouse. Unlike the majority of Muang Ngoi accommodation, it is not a wooden bungalow set-up but a solid two-storey building with a bricks and mortar ground floor and a wooden upper floor boasting a communal balcony complete with bamboo loungers and a view over their restaurant rooftop to the mountains. This is probably Rainbow Guesthouse’s main selling point.

Inside, the rooms are run of the mill basic Lao guesthouse, with the bonus of clean white sheets on the bed including a top sheet. There’s mosquito nets, a row of hooks on the wall, a bedside table and fan. Toilet paper, towel and little bar of soap is provided. The decently sized wetroom bathroom has a Western flush toilet and electric heated shower.

Rainbow Guesthouse fits the bill for the traveller who wants a room in a solid building close to the boat landing.

Address: Right of the boat landing
Room rates: Under US$10

Suan Phao Guesthouse

Within Muang Ngoi’s small crop of accommodation, Suan Phao Guesthouse’s six bungalows hover in the middle of the pack.

It’s not as modern or fancy as Lerdkeo’s solid buildings but it’s not flimsy or basic. 

Six wood-clad raised bungalows form a U-shape around a restaurant terrace. Each has a porch with a hammock and clothesline. Walls are covered in white drywall, unlike the unfinished wood planks usually found. Beds are topped with clean linens and white cotton duvets cover. There’s also mosquito net, fan and curtained windows with security bars, meaning windows can be safely opened at night for fresh air. The tiled bathrooms are also noteworthy. They are more befitting of a bricks and mortar guesthouse building than riverside bungalow. It’s a reasonable size and has a Western toilet, electric heated shower and towel rack.

Address: It’s located at the end of the main street. That’s only 350 metres from the main boat landing. At the top of the boat landing stairs, turn right.
Room rates: US$10 to 20

While great Western and Indian food is available, there are plenty of local offerings to enjoy as well. Lao staples like Larb or Laotian barbeque is of course everywhere, but more exotic meals like Buffalo steak or regional specialties like Mok Phaa (steamed fish in banana leaves) can also be found.

The region also produces its own local sausages (Muang Ngoi sausage) and a lovely stew called Lao Suzy (with potatoes, carrots, eggplants and onions) is popular with locals and travellers alike.

Here are some places to eat and drink in Muang Ngoi:


Riverbeach Restaurant 

Located on balcony overlooking the beach and nam ou river, close to the temple. Serves great food and western cocktails.

Phetdavanh Buffet Place 

In the beginning of the main street there is a Swedish guy and his local wife running a buffet restaurant. Besides from the good food they also serve fabulous cocktails and play nice music. Buffet breakfast (7:30 - 10:30am, 30,000 kip - May 2017) with a lot of fruits, sweets, tea & coffee, muesli, shak suka, eggs in all variations. Not anything special but cheap for the quantity. The same place offers dinner buffet for 30,000 kip with a good choice of local foods. Excellent food despite the dirtiness, they are currently developing the premises as the owners are moving to their other location at River View Bungalows.

Ning Ning Restaurant 

Left of the Boatlanding stairs take the path passing the boat office. Big open-air terrace overlooking the Nam Ou, best view in town. Open all year.

Lattanavongsa Restaurant 

Immediately left of the Boat landing, overlooking the jetty. Solid and clean. Boasts big wooden balcony and marble table seats on the grass. Open all year. Excellent and cheap place for breakfast, especially before boarding the ferry.

Aloune Mai 

Located halfway through the mainstreet on the right hand. Good Lao food and cold beer Lao.

Veranda Restaurant 

Halfway down the main road, cheap and cheerful. Handwritten menus include reviews and tips from past travelers, occasionally helpful since the menu isn't always up to date on what's included in terms of pricing and ingredients. Good value for lunch and dinner; pricing isn't as good on breakfasts.

Vita Restaurant 

Located after Aloune Mai on the right side of main street. Good mango shakes and a solid chicken suzi.

Bee Tree Restaurant 

Beautifully located on the very end of the main street (5min from boatlanding). Serves amazing authentic versions of Lao and local food with fresh ingredients and free from MSG. The chef is young, passionate and a very nice guy. Menu includes explanations on the various dishes. There's a happy hour on all real cocktails everyday and they are the best in town. Prices are the same as anywhere else but food and service is much better than at the moneygrubbing "riverside" lodges along the boatlanding.

Meen Indian Restaurant

Indian and Lao food.  

On the main street...

Not far away from Aloune Mai, there is in the evening a local merchant selling take-away delicious home-made pork sausages, sticky rice and spicy pepper sauce packed in banana leaves.


Riverbeach Bar 

Located over the riverbeach on the right side of the boatlanding. Beutiful terasses with bambu furniture and on the beach there is a daily campfire in the evening.

Pdv Books Cafe and Buffet 

At the beginning of the main road Phetdavanh guesthouse serves daily breakfast and dinner buffets, during daytime there is also lunch and different sweets. Happy hour for cocktails 5pm - 7pm makes also this a great place to have a drink before dinner.

Sky Bar 

Located in the middle of the town. Open in Dry Season (December - March)

Cave View Restaurant - Across bamboo bridge from Tham Khan cave

Very quaint setting on the river/stream. Food and bevs, petang square, friendly and fun owners. Owner also has high-quality scarves at reasonable prices that she makes herself on site! Great place. Open when there are customers - definitely in high season Nov to Feb. Just pop in if you are at the cave anyway!

How to get to Muang Ngoi from Nong Khiaw

Most visitors to Muang Ngoi will arrive from the town of Nong Khiaw, which is south of Muang Ngoi on the banks of the Nam Ou River. To get from Nong Khiaw to Muang Ngoi you will need to take a boat ride upriver as there is no road to Muang Ngoi at this time.

The boat ride takes about 90 minutes, and floats by huge stretches of wild jungle, as well as a couple of tiny villages. The Nam Ou River is wide and powerful, and the boat ride can certainly get exciting in certain spots.

There are two options for travelers wishing to visit Muang Ngoi from Nong Khiaw- public boat or private boat.

Public Boat

The public boat leaves at 10:30am and 1:30pm from Nong Khiaw every day. Tickets for the public boat cost 25,000kip (about $3 USD).

Keep in mind that these boats are small, and the boat captain will squeeze in as many bodies as possible for the ride to Muang Ngoi. 

Private Boat

Private boats can be hired for the journey if you prefer a bit more comfort. Its price is 200,000kip ($23 USD) total for a small boat (basically a skinny canoe with a motor), and 400,000kip ($46 USD) total for a large boat (these are the same size as the public boats).

While the private boats are quite a bit more expensive than the public boat you could make them affordable by getting a group together to hire one. The small boats can hold 4 passengers, and the large boats can easily hold 6-8 passengers comfortably.

Where To Get Your Ticket

Whether you want a public or a private boat you will need to stop at the local boat dock in Nong Khiaw to get your tickets. Known as the Nong Khiaw Pier, the dock is located on the north side of the large Nong Khiaw bridge, near the Coco Home Bar and Restaurant.

If you happen to be making the boat journey from the northern village of Muang Khua to Luang Prabang you can easily make a stop at Muang Ngoi as it is right along the way!

Getting around

Muang Ngoi is a tiny village along a single main street, very easy to get around on foot. The trailheads for the Muang Ngoi viewpoint and Phaboom viewpoint are close, just at the edge of the village. Outlying farms and villages can be explored on foot or by bicycle, a mountain bike goes for 50,000 kip per day.

Contact us for more information

For such a small village, Muang Ngoi has quite a few services available for visitors:

Boat Hire

Just like in Nong Khiaw, you can easily hire a private boat in town to take you up or down river. Check with the restaurant right next to the boat pier for more information.

Sewing/Clothing Repair

About halfway down the main street there is a seamstress who can fit you for a new Laotian outfit or do repairs/alterations on your clothing or backpacks.


Nearly ever guesthouse in town will do laundry for you. The rate everywhere is 10,000kip ($1.15 USD) per kilogram. If you want in back in a hurry be sure to ask if they can machine dry it for you, otherwise air drying will take a while in the high humidity.

Money Exchange

There are a few guesthouses and restaurants near the boat pier that offer money exchange of US dollars or Thai baht. The rates are not very good so it’s really best to arrive with as much Laotian cash as you’ll need.


There is no ATM in Muang Ngoi. However, Ning Ning Resort can run your debit card and give you cash if you’re in a pinch. They charge 5% for this service, which is a very reasonable fee considering the only other way to get cash is to take the boat all the way back to Nong Khiaw!


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A notice issued by Luang Prabang provincial office says that Luang Prabang will arrange Boun Hor Khaopadapdin, an annual festival held to feed spirits with home-made parcels of food, and the boat racing activities along Namkhan River. 

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