Siem Reap Travel

Siem Reap Weather Overview

Siem Reap has a tropical climate with seasonal variations typical of all of Cambodia. As a rule of thumb, Siem Reap is driest from November to March with hardly any rain falling in December and January, when day after day of cloudless blues skies is a regular occurrence — very handy for northern hemisphere-dwellers who need to escape the gloom of winter over that conveniently long Christmas and New Year holiday.

Check the below table for the general idea of Siem Reap weather throughout the year

It would be a shame to come all the way to South East Asia and not visit Siem Reap. Home to Angkor Wat, the awe-inspiring and mind-blowing collection of ancient temple ruins, a visit to Siem Reap might just be the highlight of your trip.
Outside of the mystifying temple tours, this northern city has a lot to offer in terms of culture, history, and wild holiday antics. Dive into cooking classes and pottery-making lessons, visit war museums to learn about the areas affected by landmines, and then mingle with other travelers at some local pubs where you can find amazing Western food and low-priced draft beer.

Let’s explore the best things to do in Siem Reap:

1. Tour Angkor Wat

Magical, mysterious, and absolutely mesmerizing, Angkor Wat is one of those bucket list places that every human should experience before they die. Here is the largest Buddhist temple on earth, which took 30 years to build during the 12th century (113-5BC) and spans over 208 hectares (500 acres).

It is said that Angkor Wat was built as funereal temple for King Suryavarman II, with each structure representing phases of life, death, and beyond. As you stroll through one of history’s lost civilizations, climbing marble stairs and ducking through stone-structured archways, you’ll get an architectural glimpse into a world long forgotten.

It is highly recommended to get an English-speaking guide to walk with you from temple to temple explaining each one and it’s purpose as you go. You can find these guides freelancing at the entrance to the temples or you can go on an organized tour, which offers 1-day, 3-day, and even 1-week tours to cover as much ground as you please.

2. Dirtbike or Quad

Whether you’re looking for a half-day tour on the red dirt roads of Siem Reap, or want to go on a 2-day all or 7-day dirt bike excursion around Cambodia, there’s lots of available tours that can make it happen.

There are tours like the 1-day trip to Phnom Kulen, which is a sacred mountain with hidden waterfalls, lush jungle forest, and long stretches of open dirt road to tear up, as well as tours like the 6-day excursion that takes you in a massive loop around the country and includes accommodation and fuel.

The bikes are finely tuned, totally gassed up, and ready to be your adrenaline-pumping companion in Cambodia.

3. Eat Red Ants

When in Cambodia, you should eat as the locals eat. We’re not talking about going all out with spiders or larva. Start small with yummy dishes like beef and ants. The flavor of the ants is bitter and the crunch is reminiscent of eating caviar. The balance of beef and gravy compliments each spoonful of ants quite well, especially with a beer on the side.

Order this plate at a snazzy restaurant like Marum where dishes (and experiences) are meant to be shared or try Mie Café whose in-house chef makes the most gourmet red ant dishes in the whole city.

4. The Old Market

Get the local experience at The Old Market, or as the locals call it “Psar Chaa”. Built in the 1920’s, here is where residents of Siem Reap come to get their produce, grains, and meat for homecooked meals.

The market is divided into small sections selling different goods. Go to the fruit section where you can get organic fruit like mangosteens and dragon fruit at local prices, walk down the dim alleyways of the meat section where you’ll find freshly made sausages hanging on strings, or walk through the rows of vendors sitting on straw floor mats selling dried seafood.

Of course, there are sections selling clothes, handcrafts, and seasonings- which all make for great gifts to send home.

5. Cambodia Landmine Museum

Decades have passed since both the Vietnam War and the Khmer Rouge regime, but life-threatening reminders still remain hidden in the fields of Cambodia; 6 million reminders to be exact. The Cambodia Landmine Museum is the best place in Siem Reap to educate yourself on the whos, whats, and whys regarding landmines in Cambodia.

In addition to a history lesson and an up-to-date briefing on the landmine situation, you’ll all get to see some active and detonated landmines up close. You’ll learn about how it has affected locals and see what efforts are being made to rid the region of these hidden dangers.

6. Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity

Here’s your chance to have an intimate experience with animals native to Cambodia while also contributing to a great cause.

Right here in Siem Reap is one of the most vital wildlife conservation centers in the north of Cambodia. The Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity works towards the advancement of species and habitat preservation through several channels including species breeding, animal rehabilitation, community education, and conservation and research.

The biodiversity center offers two tours during the day: one a 9am and one at 1pm. On these tours, the knowledgeable and passionate guides will explain how they rehabilitate otters, porcupines, birds and other animals so that they can be reintroduced into the wild.

7. Have a Spa Day

When you want the total spa treatment but don’t want to spend half of your travel budget on getting it, that’s when you come to Lemongrass Garden. Just a couple dollars more than the common sub-par massage shops that you pass in the touristy areas, Lemongrass Garden is a professional experience that will leave you feeling positively pampered.

For a lavish experience, try out the 4-Hands Massage offered in the form of full-body, legs, Khmer massage and more. They also offer manicures, body scrubs, facials, and waxing.

You can relax even deeper knowing that all of their staff are expertly trained while being treated with the utmost respect and value as employees.

8. Banteay Srey Butterfly Centre

Butterfly enthusiasts, nature lovers, and families with kids- here is an experience that you don’t want to pass up while in Cambodia. This butterfly sanctuary and conservation center is the perfect opportunity to get up close and personal with your favorite insects.

Come walk around with dozens species of free flying Cambodian butterflies in this interactive butterfly exhibit. The enclosed garden is built like a rainforest to mimic the butterflies’ natural habitat. Sit still and some are sure to land on you for a little rest.

You can take an educational tour with a guide who will show the various stages of the butterfly lifecycle. Banteay Srey Butterfly Centre is open every day of the week from 9am to 5pm.

9. Get a Fish Spa Pedicure

You might have seen them before- those clear aquariums full of fish with cozy chairs attached. But what are they for? The strangest pedicure of your life.

Stick your feet into the tank filled with fish that just love the taste of dead skin. They’ll swarm your feet and nibble off those calluses you get from traveling and trim your dry cuticles in a matter of 20 minutes. It doesn’t hurt but it totally tickles.

Have a wander on Walking Street where you’ll find a handful of spas offering this service for around $3.

10. Angkor Pottery Center

Learn the basics of pottery making techniques just like the ancient Cambodians from Angkorian times. Spend the day at the Angkor Pottery Center with English-speaking pottery teachers where you’ll learn to make pots, vases, and bowls. Get ready to get your hands messy while you sit at the pottery wheel and spin wet clay to form beautiful and functional pieces. You’ll fire them in a ceramic oven where they harden and become the best souvenirs to take home. This is a fantastic cultural experience and an all-around fun time in Siem Reap.

The pottery class is a great activity for groups, couples, solo travelers, and even children. Classes are just 30 minutes so consider grouping this activity into your day of Angkor Wat sight seeing.

11. Kulen Nature Trails

Talk to a tuk tuk driver to help you find a guide for the Kulen Nature Trails. These rainforest trails offer hidden gems in the rainforest such as ancient temples, respected monasteries, and rushing waterfalls. You’ll walk along a gorgeous river and under cool, shady trees making for a much-needed escape from the heat.

Once you reach the waterfall, there will be vendors selling snacks and beverages. Stock up and have a picnic under one of the pagodas next to the waterfall.

It’s best to visit the trails during dry season. If you visit during rainy season then your hike will be met with murky and muddy paths that just are no fun. Also, get a head start in the morning so that you don’t run into other groups of tourists.

12. Cycling Tour

One of the best ways to see the true Cambodia is on a cycling tour in the countryside. Take the “Off the Beaten Track” tour, gaining insight into how rural Cambodians live their day-to-day life.

You’ll embark on a 20-kilometer adventure over 4 hours with an English-speaking guide. You’ll pass rice fields, lazy cows, Khmer villages and busy farmers. The locals who you’ll meet along the way are very friendly and the children will be very excited to see you.

13. Take a Cooking Class

What better way to learn about the traditions of Cambodia than through your stomach? Visit Lily’s Secret Garden, a hygienic kitchen in an authentic teakwood style Cambodian house on stilts surrounded by a lush tropical garden. The setting is perfect for a tranquil morning or afternoon of culinary creation.

During your hour and a half cooking class, you’ll be guided through a 3-course menu of traditional Khmer dishes using organic ingredients. You’ll make appetizers like spring rolls with chicken, main dishes such as Amok curry or stir fried chicken and noodles, and for dessert you’ll have pumpkin in coconut cream. Every step is led by a friendly English-speaking chef who will teach you step-by-step cooking skills that you can take home as a lifelong souvenir.
When the cooking is finished, sit down to enjoy the fruits of your labor.

14. Apsara Dance Performance

A mixture between Cirque du Soleil and a Native American Pow Wow, the Aspara Dance performance is absolutely mesmerizing.

Aspara, meaning “beautiful girls” in Khmer, was historically performed by girls who were believed to have supernatural powers. The dance stems all the way back to Angkorian times when Suryavarman II was in power. Back then, these goddess-like women only danced for the royal family.

These days, you can be royalty when you snag a ticket for the evening performance. The show is a full on production with captivating dancers, intricate costumes, professional lighting, and intense backdrops that lasts for over an hour.

15. Wander Pub Street

With so much culture, history, and ancient architecture to take in during the day, you might just want to let off some mindless steam at night. For a relaxed evening of western food and a wild night of Angkor beers on tap, head to Pub Street.

This long walking road surrounded by neon signs, bars touting bucket drink specials, and groups of social travelers every where you turn, Pub Street has become the official backpacker’s oasis in the middle of Siem Reap.

You’ll find plenty of clubs and watering holes that are open late, as well as, lots of budget hostels in the area making for a convenient place to crash.

The best Siem Reap dishes can be enjoyed everywhere in the quaint town, from dingy roadside stalls and traditional markets to luxury hotels and high-end Khmer restaurants. Due to its close proximity to Tonle Sap Lake, freshwater fish is a common ingredient with noodles, soups, and curries, while grilled beef, pork, and chicken are paired with rice and salads. Siem Reap is also heavily influenced by the French, so traditional soups are often served with a baguette for breakfast.

Prahok

Prahok is known as a distinctive feature of Cambodia cuisine. To make prahok, the locals have to prepare well processed fish, salt, sugar, pepper, garlic and cold rice. First of all they will process the fish and expose fish to the sun for a day then mix with all of the spice and keep this mixture in a jar for several months. Prahok is able to eat when it become pasty and the color turn gray with a specific smell. This food is a traditional food of Cambodian as well as a spice to put into broth of some noodles soup.

Where to eat:

+ Khmer Family Restaurant

• Add: Street 8, Siem Reap, Cambodia
• Opening hours: 7.30 am – 10.30 pm

+ Chanrea Dom Makara restaurant

• Add: Sivatha Road a block, Sieamreap
• Opening hours: 10.00 am – 20.00 pm

Amok Fish

You can find Amok fish easily in Siem Riep because this it is the outstanding dish of Khmer’s cuisine. Foreign tourists say that Amok has a eye-catching look because it is served in a fresh coconut or sometime it is wrapped in banana leaf with the coconut cream on top. Amok is actually a thick yellow curry and the locals usually use catfish or white fish as the main ingredient of amok. Besides, the spices that come along with fish in this dish is also the key of amok’s unique flavor. Though every family here has their own recipe for this special food, the indispensable spices are garlic, satl, prahok, brown sugar, lemongrass, galangal, chili paste and coconut milk. You can also enjoy amok with rice.

Where to eat:

+ Khmer Kitchen

• Add: Mondul I, Sangkat Svay Dangkum, Siem Reap Cambodia
• Opening hours: 10.00 am – 9.00 pm

+ Amok restaurant

• Add: Street No. 9, Passage / Old Market, Siem Reap
• Opening hours: 10.00 – 23.00

Green Mango Salad

Cambodia has many good mango varieties; therefore, the green mango salad here is also a beloved dish of not only the locals but also the foreign tourists. Green mango salad is made from tart green mango and seasoned with fish sauce, lemon juice, sugar, minced garlic, red hot pepper, some types of fresh herbs. The subtle point of this dish is the moderated sourness of green mango and amazing taste of the dressing. This salad is so popular in the region so you can order this dish as you appetizer in every restaurant or at any roadside food stall in Siem Reap.

Where to eat:

+ Haven Training Restaurant

• Add: Sok San Street, Siem Reap, Cambodia
• Opening hours: 11.30 – 14.30 and 17.30 – 21.30

+ Sala Bai restaurant

• Add: 155 Phum Tapoul, Siem Reap

Chili Fried Insects

Walk down the streets in Siem Reap you will can’t help being at fault when there are too many fried insects sold at the roadside food stalls. It’s said that this is a popular food of the poor Cambodians in the past. Because insects are not only very cheap but also have a high nutrition content. Nowadays fried insects become so popular that you can find this special food at some luxury restaurants in the city. There is a market that specializes in selling fried insects in Siem Reap where you can see many kinds of insect like spiders, wasps, crickets or silkworms. The locals season the insects with salt, sugar, herbs and chili then fry them into deep oil pan. Fired insects taste really good and so crispy.

Where to eat:

• Old Market Area 5 a.m.–6 p.m. for most vendors, between Street 9, Street 11, 2 Thmou St. and Pokombor Avenue
• Angkor Night Market; 4 p.m.–12 a.m.; Old Market Area

Bamboo Sticky Rice

Rice is a main food in every meal of every family in the Southeast Asian nations and normally people don’t pay much attention to this flat and vapid food. However, bamboo sticky rice in Cambodia will make you change your mind at first try. Bamboo sticky rice is absolutely cooked in bamboo sections so first of all the locals have to collect the bamboo then process cleanly and chop bamboo into sections that about 30 centimeters in length. In the next step, Cambodian mix sticky rice-a special rice grown in Cambodia with black eye peas and a little bit of salt then they stuff up those bamboo sections with this mixture. Finally they add the coconut water in these bamboo sections and grill it directly on the coal for an hour. The secret of good bamboo sticky rice is you have to revolve the bamboo sections while grilling. You will never forget the fresh taste of coconut together with the savory taste of sticky rice, peas and salt in this dish.

Where to eat

+ Old Market Area

• Add: between Street 9, Street 11, 2 Thmou St. and Pokombor Avenue
• Opening hours: 4.00 pm -12.00 am

Nom Banh Chok

Khmer noodles is the popular English name for Nom Banh Chok being called by locals and tourists and one of the best noodles in Cambodia which is becoming a noodle symbol for this country. Basically Nom Banh Chok is served the most for breakfast. But when you come to Siem Reap, it is available in most restaurants and for all meals because it is beloved by most locals and visitors. You can easily find Khmer noodles from street vendors, restaurants, buffets or even in cafe shops. Primarily, Nom Banh Chok's main ingredient are rice noodles, curry sauce, veggies like fresh mint leaves, spring onions, banana flower, bean sprouts, cucumber and some pork slices on top. What makes the noodles good and different from one to another is how the curry is made. But the common taste of all Nom Banh Chok is from lemongrass, turmeric root and kaffir lime which is cooked in the curry.

Where to eat: Nom banh chok is one kind of noodles which is often sold by the vendor in the morning.

Cambodian BBQ

Cambodian is so in love with grilled food that you can find this kind of food everywhere in Cambodia and most restaurants here have charcoal-burners. The grilled food here is very plentiful of ingredients and you can see the locals grill seafood like fish, shrimp, squid or meat like pork, chicken, duck, beef or even insects. Cambodian BBQ has a strong and charming flavor due to the original and subtle use of spice.

Where to eat:

+ Cambodian BBQ restaurant

• Add: Street No. 8, Pub Street / Passage ,Siem Reap, Kingdom of Cambodia
• Opening hours: 10.00 am -24.00

+ Old Market Area

• Add: between Street 9, Street 11, 2 Thmou St. and Pokombor Avenue
• Opening hours: 4.00 pm -12.00 am

Khmer Cakes

The Khmer cakes are sweet yet savory, made with taro, mung beans and a few preserved bits of fruit on top to give it sweetness. Khmer cake is another good option for someone who is sweet-tooth. But the special thing of this cake is the perfect combination of sweetness and savor which makes Khmer cakes beloved by everyone. When eating Khmer cakes you will find taro mung beans inside and some small pieces of dried fruits on top. Right at the first bite you can feel it is a bit crunchy outside and soft inside the cake which gives you the interesting joy of eating this cake non-stop.

Where to eat: Be found on street vendors carts in the back streets of Siem Reap

Stir-fried ants with beef

You can find various dishes made from insects in Cambodia. One of them is stir-fried ants with beef, which appeals most tourists to put their order on the menu. The name of the dish speaks all enough the main ingredients. Food made from ants is not so strange to visitors who used to travel to Southeast Asia. But ants in association with beef can only be found in Cambodia. Ants of all sizes are stir-fried with a bunch of spices -lemongrass, ginger, garlic, shallots and thinly sliced beef. This is a aromatic dish with sour flavor which the ants impart to the beef during marination.

Where to eat:

+ Marum restaurant

• Add: Between Wat (Pagoda) Polanka & Catholic Church, #8A, B Phum Slor Kram, Siem Reap, Cambogia
• Opening hours: 11.00 am – 10.30 pm

Jaggery sweet soup

After all spicy and hot food you have tried in Siem Reap, Jaggery sweet soup is an ideal balance to satisfy your taste. It is a concentrated product of date, cane juice, or palm sap (see palm sugar). It's colors vary from golden brown to dark brown, which will make the typical color in a bowl of jaggery sweet soup. Jaggery is a rich source of iron. It also contains many minerals salts not found in ordinary sugar. Therefore a jaggery sweet soup will reboost your energy for the journey in Siem Reap. Jaggery sweet soup is a sweet thick soup with potato cubes and green beans and best served in cool or with some ice.

Where to eat: Be found on street vendors carts in the back streets of Siam Reap

The Cambodian city of Siem Reap is best known as the home of the Angkor Wat temple complex. About 1,000 years ago, the area was the capital and main city of the Khmer empire. Now connected to the world with direct flights from Hong Kong and other Asian hubs, it's easier than ever to get here. The city, bisected by the Siem Reap River, is relatively compact. Most accommodations are in the Old French Quarter, which is a large area that encompasses neighborhoods like Temple Town, City Centre, and the Pub Street district. Just across the river from the Old French Quarter, the Wat Bo area is also convenient to everything, but a bit quieter. The whole city is so small that any hotel is only about 15 minutes from the Angkor Archaeological Park. Taxi and tuk-tuk (like a scooter rickshaw for two passengers) transportation is easy to find and very cheap, most rides within the city are under five dollars.

Where to Stay for Luxury

Amansara

The best of the best is Amansara, housed in the former guesthouse of the Cambodian king. Starting with airport pickup in a vintage Mercedes limo by white-suited and white-gloved valets, the chic resort creates an exclusive, bespoke experience for their guests. It's located right off the main road, with easy access to the temples and to other sightseeing. The small property, part of the Aman luxury resort chain and with only 24 open-plan suites, can be hard to book as it's very popular. Amenities include a world-class spa; specially curated temple tours that focus on different eras and subjects; and warm, personal service. About 12 of the suites, which are beautifully finished and styled, have private saltwater plunge pools. The resort offers an extensive menu of programming, with a constant cycle of visiting experts in art, architecture, food, music, and other subjects who give talks and tours. They're also known for their helicopter tours, providing guests the opportunity to see multiple temple sites, some deep in the jungle and some farther away than is reasonably accessible by tuk-tuk.

Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor

For a traditional, colonial, luxury experience in the Old French Quarter, Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor is the go-to choice for smart travelers. The luxury hotel is a modern resort, although the main building dates from 1932, and it's all done in the traditional colonial style. The Raffles is right on the main road, where you'll find most of the city's luxury and resort hotels. The Raffles' Cabana Suites are especially popular as their balconies (which have day beds and private, outdoor dining areas) have direct access to the pool (the largest in Cambodia) and gardens. And lovely gardens they are; the Raffles sits amid 15 acres of lush tropical landscaping and French gardens.

Le Meridien Angkor

Le Meridien Angkor offers Siem Reap's best corporate hotel luxury experience, with traditionally decorated rooms and suites at very reasonable prices. The brand's French heritage works perfectly with the French influence in Cambodia, and the hotel itself is a modern recreation of a colonial mansion. The 213-room resort hotel has a large Cambodian-inspired (lots of big structures like ruins) pool area, a large lake, and a canal surrounds the property and the individual buildings. Lily pads and other aquatic life make it a beautiful place to stay and to explore. Le Meridien is in the center of Siem Reap, also on the Charles de Gaulle road near Raffles. The hotel offers inexpensive cooking classes, one session in the morning, one in the afternoon, giving guests a chance to cook traditional Khmer dishes with the hotel's Executive Chef.

Where to Stay: Mid-Range

Angkor Village Resort

The Angkor Village Resort is a large and very popular hotel that mimics several of the branded resort properties in the area (Raffles and Le Meridien specifically). The lack of connection to a major corporate brand can lead to some English language issues with the staff, but it also means lower prices. Rates include an extensive breakfast buffet with local and Western specialties.

FCC Angkor

The FCC Angkor is a recreation of, and run by the same group as, the historic Foreign Correspondents' Club found in Phnom Penh. Originally the mansion of the French governor, it's now a luxury boutique hotel, located right on Siem Reap's main road. There's a spa and a saltwater swimming pool. The restaurant, also called FCC Angkor, is excellent and considered one of the best in Siem Reap. Ask about a suite upgrade, the hotel is known to do them for a small fee.

Courtyard by Marriott Siem Reap Resort

The Courtyard by Marriott Siem Reap Resort is a new property (the brand's first in Cambodia) that reflects the chain's reputation for value and stylish accommodations. The six-story hotel has a rooftop lounge that gives guests beautiful views of the Angkor complex, and they even provide binoculars. There's a saltwater pool, fitness center, and a full-service spa called Quan. The Courtyard by Marriott offers amenities usually found at luxury hotels, like cooking classes and a kid's club program. As an additional bonus, it's right near the famous Siem Reap Night Market, a must-see attraction when visiting Siem Reap.

Where to Stay on a Budget

Sokha Palace Siem Reap Hotel

As one of the world's most popular backpacker destinations, Siem Reap is filled with very cheap hostels and guesthouses, but clean, comfortable, private hotel rooms can be found for around $50 per night. A good example of this is the Sokha Palace Siem Reap Hotel. Built by a Chinese developer to mainly cater to Chinese tour groups, the large, 700-room hotel is quite beautiful, with a resort-style pool and a range of luxury amenities (large fitness center, spa, multiple restaurants). It's on the main road, almost at the temple park complex entrance, farther away from the noise of the Old French Quarter. The hotel can be quite crowded with tour groups, making it hard to enjoy these amenities, like the free breakfast buffet. Rooms are large, clean and new, but quite basic, with simple furnishings and not much style.

Metta Residence and Spa

Feeling more like a luxury resort, the budget-priced Metta Residence and Spa adds to its value with free tuk-tuk service to the temples and around Siem Reap, complimentary airport transfers, free Wi-Fi, and an excellent free breakfast. It's a new construction, which also separates it from many of the other budget options. The Metta is also a bit farther out than many other hotels, located past Wat Bo, but still only a five-minute ride from Pub Street and 20 minutes from the temples.

Grand Bayon Siem Reap Hotel

Located a bit off the main road on a soon-to-be-paved dirt road, the new Grand Bayon Siem Reap Hotel has nice new rooms (some with balconies), surrounding a swimming pool, for hostel prices. There's free Wi-Fi; a free, yet basic, breakfast; and a friendly, helpful staff looking to generate good word-of-mouth for the newly opened property. There's also a small restaurant and laundry service. You can walk to the entertainment and Night Market areas.

Sokha Roth Premium Hotel

Another Sokha property is about 20 minutes outside town (and 30 minutes from Angkor Wat) with some very low rates. The Sokha Roth Premium Hotel is a smaller property from the Chinese company, but it has extremely large rooms (some with balconies), a nice pool, and friendly staff who speak fairly good English. The value gets even better with free Wi-Fi and free breakfast.

By flight

Siem Reap’s international airport is seven kilometres away from the town centre.

If arriving on an international flight, the best option is to get an e-visa in advance, which should get you through immigration quickly and without hassle. However, most people still apply for a visa-on-arrival. To avoid getting stuck behind plane loads of other applicants, be sure to ask your flight attendants for the necessary documents and fill them out while still in the air. See our Cambodia visa information for full details.

Once you’ve cleared immigration and customs, you’ll need to get to your hotel or guesthouse. The main ways to gett from Siem Reap International Airport into Siem Reap include:

Taxi

Taxis can be picked up from a booth at the airport. The fee is US$8 to the centre of town and nearby. Bear in mind the driver will hope to garner your custom for the duration of your stay, taking you around Angkor and so on — this is totally up to you.

Tuk tuks are not allowed to pick up business inside the airport, but there may be some waiting on the road outside if you want to take a look. The ride into town should be $5.

Motorbike

Motos are similarly not allowed to do pick-ups from the airport , but again some are likely to be loitering around outside. A moto ride into town should be about $2. You can often get the ride effectively for free by agreeing to hire the moto to take you around the ruins or show you to a guesthouse where they can get a commission for your stay. It is extremely bad form to negotiate a free ride and then decide not to use the moto for the ruins after all.

By bus

The main bus station is located about four kilometres out of Siem Reap, though some bus companies have their own stations often closer to town. In most cases, your bus’s arrival will be greeted by a legion of tuk tuk drivers. It’s usually $3 into town from the main station, although as with the airport, this can be negotiated down if you agree to contract with the driver for your visits to the temples and so on. For an outward journey, many bus companies will offer to pick you up and ferry you out to the bus station, either directly from your hotel or from the travel agent where you booked your ticket.

The best bus company doing the Siem Reap to Phnom Penh run is Giant Ibis, which costs US$15 ($16 if booked online) and takes between six and a half to eight hours. They have three day-time departures, early morning, around midday and one night bus, which leaves at 23:00. On top of being relatively luxurious, Giant Ibis buses offer free WiFi, seat belts (still very unusual), electrical outlets and air-con. Moreover, a GPS system monitors the driver’s performance and speed, meaning that they are far less likely to take the insane risks that so many on Cambodian roads seem to consider quite unexceptional.

The next best company is Mekong Express, whose comfortable though ageing buses make for Siem Reap from Phnom Penh, and vice-versa, four times a day, for $13. GST and Sorya buses also take about the same time but only cost $6 and tend to be less comfortable. Their drivers are also a little more erratic.

Minivans are a quicker option and can also be booked through travel agents in town. The ticket should be $10. When booking, try to get the seat inside the sliding door as this will afford you more leg room. Journey times can be substantially shorter than with the larger buses, however you may feel several years older on arrival. This is not for the faint of heart, and with the road out of Phnom Penh in a state of ruin — it is essentially miles and miles of rubble — you will feel the slamming of every stone that you hurtle over.

By boat

The boats to and from Battambang and Phnom Penh dock at Chong Kneas, a lake port about 12 kilometres south of Siem Reap. The trip to or from the pier takes about 30 minutes. The boat from Phnom Penh is a speed boat, costs $35 and takes around five to six hours. Transport to Siem Reap should be included in the price. The boat from Battambang is a slow boat and can take anywhere from four to 12 hours, depending on the time of year and current, and how many times you stop. Expect a moto to charge around US$2 to get into town while a car should cost about US$6.

Others

Taxis from Phnom Penh usually cost around $45 to $55, and can be secured through travel agents in the city. The easiest and fastest way to get to the Thai border at Poipet is to take a share taxi from Siem Reap. You can either hire the entire car ($35-$55) or buy one (or two) seats in a car. Do not, under any circumstances, take an organised minibus to Bangkok.